Lining a pool with tiles has long been regarded as the premium finish due to their appearance, silky smoothness and superior durability. Fully tiled pools are the easiest to maintain and have the most positive effect on house resale values. We use a complete Mapei system which is fully guaranteed by our supplier, this includes Glues, Grouts, additives and if waterproofing or membrane is required.
Sanza Tiles can supply all types of glass, ceramic or porcelain tiles that exceed all international standards to ensure your project lasts for many years looking like the first day it was completed.
Sanza Tiles uses a complete mapei system which ensures we can guarantee our workmanship. We use glues, grouts, waterproofing and membrane systems that are guaranteed and backed by our supplier.
Whilst there are more grout lines, you don’t notice them as much as you do with larger tiles. Think of check shirts – you see large checks far easier than small checks.
If you are not fully tiling you don’t absolutely need to have waterline tiles. However, you would be hard pressed to find a pool builder who hasn’t got tiles on their waterline. If you don’t have waterline tiles, the surface above the water often looks chalky, faded and unclean. Tiles protect the waterline from the sun and facilitate easy cleaning.
People often do tile the benches and/or seats within their pool because it protects swimwear from being pulled by sharp pebbles. Plus tiled benches and seats look great!
The water colour you see is due to the interior’s colour plus reflections of the sky, surrounds and waterline colours. So you can make your pool’s water appear darker blue by picking a dark blue tile. With fully tiled pools, the final water colour will be slightly darker and bluer than the actual tile. We can provide assistance to help you achieve the end result you’re looking for.
Step markers are used to indicate the edges of steps, swim outs and benches. They are also a safety feature as they help to highlight the depth of the water to bathers when entering or leaving the pool. It is up to you whether you use them or not.
Tiles are ideal for use on feature walls. You can either tile the entire wall or render the wall and use tiles as highlights.
Anything from 180 mm to 330 mm. The most common depth of a patterned waterline is around 200 mm. The most common depth for plain ceramic and glass mosaics is 300mm. This is because most plain mosaics are sold in sheets 300mm square.
Maintaining correct water chemistry is essential to maximize the life of your pool interior. A quick internet search will show you that water can be corrosive, balanced or scale forming. Obviously your goal is to maintain a pool in which your water is balanced.
Corrosive water i.e. low pH, low calcium hardness or low TA or a combination of these factors will reduce the strength of the grout and tile adhesive which may cause them to fail. Corrosive water also affects pebble or renders pools so regardless of which interior surface you do, it is important to maintain correct water chemistry as damage caused by corrosive water can be very expensive to rectify.
Leaving the pool water with a high pH or high calcium hardness or high TA or a combination of these factors can mean that a calcium scale can deposit over the pool interior surface and internal pool fittings.
It is not a good idea to leave a concrete pool with an interior finish empty for lengthy periods i.e. over 3 days as this may expose it to significant temperature variations for which the tile adhesive and grout may not be designed.
There are many ways you can maximize the longevity of natural stone. The aggressive environment of a swimming pool requires some special attention and consideration: